I am still finding it hard to believe that the state that is home to the grotesque vulgarity of Mar-A-Lago and the rapacious artificiality of Orlando still has Cedar Key, a place that is tranquil, unchanged, and vulnerable. I came in search of the "old Florida" and a place to quietly recharge after a cold …
A Homestay in Siem Reap and Lessons in Buddhism
I recognized Bun immediately at the Siem Reap Airport—his eyes creased and mouth wide in his perpetual smile, the red Cambodian woven scarf around his neck, his face beaming with energy. at Ta Prohm temple I had seen Bun only on his YouTube videos: Bun handing out food after the monsoon floods, Bun tending to …
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Waterways of Bangkok
Trying to understand a huge, messy, sprawling city like Bangkok as a tourist is like being the proverbial blind man with the elephant- you might figure out an ear or the trunk, but you’ll never get the whole thing. And a elephant seems an apt metaphor— for elephant imagery is everywhere. This is about one …
Three Days of Wandering In Fes
Fes is confounding, challenging, fascinating and should be on your next itinerary to Morocco. Fes, at least the Medina (Old City) which is the main attraction, is a place where the balance between modernity and tradition seems to tip heavily toward the past, where the labyrinthine and narrow alleyways disorient the unfamiliar tourist, and the …
Walking the Land of the Amazigh
The Anti-Atlas mountains stretch across southern Morocco, the last mountain range before the Sahara Desert. It’s a stark landscape of imposing ochre granite mountains scoured by wind and sand, rocky soils scattered with argan trees and terraced slopes that once held fields of barley. It is the land of the Amazigh people, better known to …
Taking a Chance on Eastern Anatolia
On a breezy and sunny afternoon last May, I found myself peering through my telephoto lens at an abandoned Soviet military installation on the other side of the Arpaçay River. The installation was in Armenia, a literal stone’s throw across the river, but as impenetrable from Turkiye as a moon landing. Earlier that day, our …
Two Mexicos: My Trip to San Miguel de Allende and Guanajuato
Hay dos Méxicos; there are two Mexicos, said our driver, Francisco, as we passed through the interminable sprawl of Mexico City on our way to San Miguel de Allende. We were passing through a stretch of sometimes makeshift auto body shops, with hand-lettered signs and beat-up cars, trying to ascertain some of the products being …
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Unplanned Portugal
Seen in the Braga Cathedral Sometimes the trip you plan is not the trip you end up having. Our trip to Portugal was originally going to be five-day layover on the way to a couple weeks of wandering around Morocco. I had been planning the Morocco trip for months and had given the Portugal part …
Who Knit Ya’? : My Visit to Newfoundland
On the only sunny day of my six days in Newfoundland, I drove down the Irish Loop from St. Johns to Ferryland, a town founded in 1621. Ferryland sits halfway down the east coast of the Avalon Peninsula, nestled, like so many Newfoundland towns, in a cove framed by rocky cliffs. In mid-October, I parked …
A Night in A Lighthouse in the San Francisco Bay
Sometimes you have to try out a travel experience because..well, just because it's there. So it was for me spending a night at the East Brother Light Station, perched on a rock where the San Pablo Bay spills into the San Francisco Bay. Last year, we had spent two nights on a tugboat in Port …
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