Two Days with the Red Dao Women
I awoke this morning to a thick grey mist covering the abundantly green valley below me. A thunderstorm had roared through last night, leaving everything glistening in the muted sunshine. I was in the village of Tà Phin, about seven miles out of Sa Pa, in the…
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Waterways of Bangkok
Trying to understand a huge, messy, sprawling city like Bangkok as a tourist is like being the proverbial blind man with the elephant- you might figure out an ear or the trunk, but you’ll never get the whole thing. And a elephant seems an apt metaphor— for…
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Three Days of Wandering In Fes
Fes is confounding, challenging, fascinating and should be on your next itinerary to Morocco. Fes, at least the Medina (Old City) which is the main attraction, is a place where the balance between modernity and tradition seems to tip heavily toward the past, where the labyrinthine and…
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Walking the Land of the Amazigh
The Anti-Atlas mountains stretch across southern Morocco, the last mountain range before the Sahara Desert. It’s a stark landscape of imposing ochre granite mountains scoured by wind and sand, rocky soils scattered with argan trees and terraced slopes that once held fields of barley. It is the…
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The Women I Met in Oaxaca
In December of 2024, I was in a classroom in Oaxaca de Juarez with eight other immigration advocates from the United States. This was my third visit to Oaxaca, but unlike the prior two. I came as a student of MANOS: Migrantes Apoyados, No Olvidados (Migrants Supported,…
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Taking a Chance on Eastern Anatolia
On a breezy and sunny afternoon last May, I found myself peering through my telephoto lens at an abandoned Soviet military installation on the other side of the Arpaçay River. The installation was in Armenia, a literal stone’s throw across the river, but as impenetrable from Turkiye…
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Contemplating Baklava: Eating my way through Türkiye
Our Istanbul food tour guide, Kadir, leaned over the plate of baklava and commanded our attention. “There is a proper way to eat baklava, watch”, and he speared the sweet sticky square with his fork about a third of the way in and turned it over so…
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Two Mexicos: My Trip to San Miguel de Allende and Guanajuato
Hay dos Méxicos; there are two Mexicos, said our driver, Francisco, as we passed through the interminable sprawl of Mexico City on our way to San Miguel de Allende. We were passing through a stretch of sometimes makeshift auto body shops, with hand-lettered signs and beat-up cars,…
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