I don’t usually think “walkable downtown” when contemplating Los Angeles. But recently I explored downtown LA—by foot and by bike—and found the bones of the city that existed before Los Angeles became synonymous with freeways. From my hotel on South Grand Avenue, I walked past gems of the 1920’s and 30’s in neighborhoods bearing names …
Kochi, Kerala and an Ancient Jewish Community: India Travels Part 3
January 1, 2023: Arrived in Kochi (Cochin), located on the far southwestern tip of India, from Delhi on New Years Eve. But the real party in Kochi seemed to be on New Years Day, when the streets were filled with costumed and bewigged people atop floats that would parade through the city. Women of all …
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Jaipur by Way of Bishangarh: India Travels Part 2
December 28, 2022: I don’t often post about hotels, but sometimes they are so unique and memorable, I must send praise. Fort Bishangargh, an 18th century Shahpura fort from days when this region was peopled with warring kingdoms, has been renovated into an elegant hotel, with rooms carved out of the granite. From above you …
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Navigating Delhi: My India Travels Part 1
Some people test their mettle camping our or climbing a mountain. My latest personal challenge was India. Three days wandering around Delhi, three in and around Jaipur, and then nine days in Kerala, the lush tropical state at the southwest tip of India. A month after returning and I am still processing what I saw …
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In Search of the Charming
What could be more picturesque than those lavender fields and bastides—the medieval fortified villages hugging hilltops— of Provence? Cezanne and Van Gogh marveled at the luminous light and the ever-changing purples, vermillion, and ochres. Provence is the stuff of travelers' dreams, of memoirs of rejuvenation and inspiration. But on a recent trip through the south …
A Philadelphian at Duke
I lived for four years in a gracious apartment at 6500 Wissahickon Avenue, in Philadelphia, in an elegant but understated stone building designed for his children by the prominent Philadelphia architect of the early 20th century- Horace Trumbauer. Living with the Trumbauer ghosts made me want to visit the Duke University campus, which I finally …
