On a breezy and sunny afternoon last May, I found myself peering through my telephoto lens at an abandoned Soviet military installation on the other side of the Arpaçay River. The installation was in Armenia, a literal stone’s throw across the river, but as impenetrable from Turkiye as a moon landing. Earlier that day, our …
Contemplating Baklava: Eating my way through Türkiye
Baklava and tea in Taksim Square Our Istanbul food tour guide, Kadir, leaned over the plate of baklava and commanded our attention. “There is a proper way to eat baklava, watch”, and he speared the sweet sticky square with his fork about a third of the way in and turned it over so the nutty …
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